Destination Showcase: Ride Québec City Part 1 - Portneuf
PORTNEUF, QC
A Hidden Paradise
Video: Liam Mullany
Photography & Words: Andy Vathis
Riders: From Rocky Mountain Vaea Verbeeck and Alex Volokhov, with Pinkbike Presenter Christina Chappetta
Presented by Quebec City Mountain Bike
The mountain biking scene in Québec City has been flourishing over the past few years and the trail associations aren't missing any opportunities, ready to accommodate the increased trail traffic and specific needs of different riders. Québec doesn’t have the elevation of the Rockies, nor does it offer any real alpine or exposed terrain, but it is just as challenging and beautiful to ride through. If the legendary Mont-Sainte-Anne World Cup is anything to go by, there is no shortage of gnar, either. Everything you dream to ride is a short car ride from the city. While you're passing through, stop in to visit historic Old Québec and all it has to offer.
Québec City's rich history doesn't begin with the European explorers some 400 years ago. The Algonquin and Iroquois First Nations were well established in the area well before the French, with extensive knowledge about navigating the surrounding tough terrain, including the complex river systems and frigid cold winters. It was that knowledge that allowed them to survive in such a climate. A few hundred years later, the land has changed hands numerous times, yet the region's geography has stayed raw. Québec City's surrounding area is lined with thick forests, big hills, and a lot of rock. It takes a certain type of person to be able to adapt and live in harmony with such challenging terrain, and the now inhabitants have proven they can do just that.
The mountain bike scene faced a few growing pains over the years here in Québec City before finding its feet. Developing the sport not only meant selling it to the people, and helping riders find places to ride was important. The motivated few that kick-started the movement volunteered their time and worked with ski hills during the summer months to begin moving dirt and shaping trails. With a steady increase in interest over the years and the growing lust to explore the outdoors, associations and clubs eventually created a huge community of riders, athletes, and tourism boards that have helped further push the sport in the Province into what it is today. The Québecois are hellbent on outdoors sports. It's only natural that they took to mountain biking with such passion.
West of Québec City lies the quiet region of Portneuf. It’s an area scattered with small towns that notably share a history with the Nionwetsïo indigenous domain of the Huron-Wendat Nation. Before becoming one of the Province’s premiere riding and outdoors destinations, Vallée Bras du Nord was a hunting and fishing ground for hundreds of years that sprawled into the valley where now stands the welcome centre to the Shannahan trail head. The land is oozing with rich foliage, natural features, and countless kilometres of trail.
The ‘VBN’ trail network is based in the town of Saint-Raymond and is split between two sectors. The Saint-Raymond and the aforementioned Shannahan area combine for well over 100 kilometres of trail that is meticulously maintained by the VBN cooperative staff members. There are a number of other activities to explore and enjoy while there that span over the four seasons such as hiking, a via ferrata and canyoning, fat biking, and backcountry skiing tours in the winter. The Shannahan sector offers plenty of lodging choices for mountain bikers: yurts, shelters, cottages and camping. For those looking for a resort experience, the Saint-Raymond sector drops in right behind the Roquemont hotel and microbrewery, perfect for the après experience, traditional Québecois dishes, and multi-day rides.
Saint-Raymond
The Saint-Raymond trails offer a mix of flowy single track and technical descents that cater to every level of rider. Trails that begin at the Roquemont are flowy, and if you are looking to catch some air or tackle steeper terrain, the tracks towards Mont Laura will definitely get the job done. The Saint-Raymond area offers varied enduro-style riding, with short uphills and descents. The manicured tracks there are filled with berms and lips to keep it interesting and have you coming back for more. This sector is closest to the city center that includes the conveniences you might find in a bigger city.
If you follow the Saint Anne river upstream, you'll eventually find yourself at the Shannahan welcome center.
The Roquemont microbrew and hotel is always ready for your next adventure and post ride fun.
The crew getting a hearty breakfast in before a long day's ride.
Map checks here are pretty essential considering the vast number of trails to link up.
Lush leafy flow trails are perfect for warm up laps or stepping stones for the technical zones in the network.
Party trains through the mixed green forest. This section features a rare commodity of loam through natural terrain. Don't be fooled, though. There are more rocks ahead.
Christina getting after the step down on the flow track.
Flow and more flow. The builders have worked hard to create a trails that not only look great but allow for progression at any level.
Every now and then, Québec City's natural features make their presence felt mid trail.
Alex making the most of his air time.
The city of Saint-Raymond from Mont Laura. From up here, most of the Saint-Raymond trails are accessible after a short pedal up to the monastery and lookout.
The girls looking for the perfect poutine stop in town.
The local 'casse-croute' or snack bar, Ti-Oui, is the place for a solid classic poutine.
Shannahan
Despite being close to the city, the Shannahan region offers a true backcountry experience. Big rocks and granite slabs have all been taken into considerations while developing the network. The trails span up and around the rapids, adding natural water features to the experience, and with some clever rock placements, most of it feels untouched by any shovels or machinery.
The way to the Shannahan welcome center is a long twisty road that passes fields and farm land.
The main trail start point is the cable bridge that in the warmer months is a good place to sit under to cool off.
There are a couple waterfalls to visit and hang out at while playing in the woods. The Delaney falls can be found at the Southernmost end of the network.
Can't say no to trail-side maple butter!
Most of the trails to the south of the welcome center are intertwined with maple trees and sap pump lines. Fun fact - Québec is the largest producer of maple syrup in North America.
Granite slabs connecting the dark soil section midway down Legende.
There are a number of trails that are a must-do while visiting VBN and La Legende is high on that list. It's a bit of a climb out to the top but the way down is very worth it.
Vaea deep in the green room.
The Legende is mostly hidden in deep forest greenery with a healthy mix of granite and other technical features. That is until the roaring of the Chute a Gilles waterfall feature breaks the sound of tires gripping the ground.
Time for apres-bike at the Roquemont after an epic ride.
Québec does terraces well and this one is no exception.
A well-deserved beer and meal after two days of exploring what VBN had to offer. In the warmer months, there are plenty of spots to pedal to for a quick dip in the river and stop for a packed lunch break. This is undoubtedly a multi-day destination if you want the full experience. We covered some mainstay tracks but there are many kilometres to go. The Neilson, for example, is one of the Shannahan sector's best-known trails, and it can take a whole day to pedal through for some. Our plans now have us heading east, just 30 minutes away, towards the trail networks in Lac Beauport.
Presented by Quebec City Mountain Bike.
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Quick heads-up for Canadian riders: Quebec's provincial health care system does not do cross-billing with the other provinces the same way that the rest of the provinces do with each other. Be ready to pay the bill and then submit a claim to your provincial health care provider after or have travel insurance setup if you're riding Quebec. For example, if you're from Ontario:
"Outside of Ontario, In Canada
If you have OHIP, you get basic health care for free when you are in most other parts of Canada.
When you are in Quebec, you might have to pay for services. When you get back to Ontario you can send your receipt to your local Ministry of Health office. If you are eligible, they can send you back the money you paid for that service. However, they will only send you back an amount that equals what that service costs in Ontario.
Keep your OHIP card with you, even when you are not in Ontario. You need to show the doctor this card to have your costs paid for by OHIP."
(settlement.org/ontario/health/ohip-and-health-insurance/ontario-health-insurance-plan-ohip/does-ohip-cover-me-when-i-am-outside-ontario)
Was it a work related incident? I had fill out forms for New Brunswick Medicare to cover the hospital visit I had while working in Labrador. Didn’t need stitches or anything just had to get a hurt finger checked out because everything has to be reported and checked up there.
- la fille qui travaille au comptoir, criant aux employés en cuisine.
www.technologyreview.com/2021/03/01/1020154/israels-green-pass-is-an-early-vision-of-how-we-leave-lockdown
I live in the province right next to Quebec and as it stands I could go there for vacation but then I gotta self isolate for two weeks at home.
www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/covid-19-mrna-vaccines-reduce-symptom-free-cases-by-80
Mountain biking in the area has exploded in the last few years, so trails/parking lots/accommodation are way busier that 3-4 years ago, but there are also more trails to enjoy every year. Trail builders have done some fantastic work and several of the trails at VBN or SDM are of the same caliber than what you'd find in Squamish or Revy (swap the alpine views for hills, lakes, and the St-Lawrence river though). Fall (Sept-early October) is an exceptional time of the year to go and ride if you can make it work.
Also there really are trails for all skils level, and they are great to progress! My 5 years old and her 7 brother are riding some of those trails, and seeing the numbers of youngsters on big bikes at the trailheads, i guess we’ll see a lot of good riders from Québec on PB in the next few years!!!
See: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maple_syrup#Commerce
Is there options to rent a truck, bike rack or anything else?
It's easy to travel when the tourism office or destination provides you with all the logistics but that isn't the case for everyone else.
It looks like they didn't even bromont this trip! Everyone should watch BKXC's video then take his advice: it sucks, don't ride there.