Reader Story: How Much Traction Does a New Tire Buy You?

Nov 18, 2023
by Matt Morrison  
Pinkbike reader Matt Morrison has continued to run experiments with his data acquisition system, following up on his attempts to determine whether pedal kickback actually happens. This time around, the goal was to figure out how much of a difference there is between a fresh tire versus a worn out tire. - Mike Kazimer




That first ride with a fresh tire is almost as good as new bike day. Well, not quite, but you get the idea. I’ve been running the same rear tire on my Stumpy Evo for longer than I can remember. It has survived the abuse of countless rides in Santa Cruz, endless laps in Whistler, and even unfriendly cacti on the Arizona Trail. A few weeks ago, a friend took pity on me and gave me a brand new tire. This prompted me to ask myself, How much traction does this new tire actually buy me? And what does better traction even mean?

I took this opportunity to run a little experiment. With my data acquisition system and a bit of code, I devised a way to measure traction loss events while on the trail. I did a few final laps with my old tire before swapping it out for new rubber. I was careful to ensure that all aspects of the bike setup, like tire pressure and suspension setup, were held constant between runs except for the single variable of the rear tire.

I’ve long thought traction was simple: you have it until you don’t! But this experiment taught me that it is more complicated than that.


And one last thing: definitely don’t buy a new tire after watching this. If it holds air and keeps you rolling, then your current one is just fine. Besides, didn’t it seem like I was having a little more fun on the old tire anyway?

photo
Farewell, old friend.


Cass Labs

Author Info:
CassLabs avatar

Member since May 29, 2023
5 articles

148 Comments
  • 155 0
 You can’t forget though, the one side effect of constant fresh tires is the tire hoarding syndrome you slowly develop. I myself have succumbed to the tire hoarding and after years have finally started letting tires go.
  • 13 0
 100% this lol!
  • 12 1
 It isn't hoarding until you have more than a year's supply of tyres for all of your bikes.
  • 74 0
 What if you need a backup pair of semi-slicks to bring with you on your Enduro race trip in case you decide to enter a last-minute xc race and you don't want to bring your primary pair because that would provide wear on them that you want to avoid for when you actually XC race?!
  • 99 0
 What are you talking about? I am absolutely going to need to mount those 10 half worn DHRs that have been sitting in my shed baking in two summers worth of heat.
  • 6 0
 Yes. I have ordered tires from the German bike sites in the past. Buying a single tire from them was cheaper than buying a single tire locally even with shipping and duty. Did I buy them one at a time? No. No I did not. Usually a 1-2 year supply. Oh and why not try that weirdo plus size thing? It’s cheap.
  • 13 0
 But you know its really bad when you have as many spare wheelsets cos you can’t be bothered changing all the tires
  • 18 1
 Wear them down on the enduro bike, then move them to the hardtail for their rolling speed.
  • 13 0
 I keep at least two in the cars spare compartment. I might tear a tire somewhere remote. The bike shop could be closed, another rider might need one. Oh god what if the shop only has wire bead Kenda Smokes. How could I possibly enjoy riding a bike again if my tire combo isn't exactly what I want. I'm off to stash a few more spares just in case, probably some more tubes as well.
  • 12 0
 I feel seen.
  • 8 0
 When I moved from my apartment to our house 4 years ago, I had a small stack of 10, 29er tires with 8 seperate tires mounted. However, I had a whole bunch of 26er tires that were used, slightly used, brand new, box of used folding tires, matched sets for certain conditions, mud, snow, dry, city/road tires for road rides, but hadn't touched my 26er in 6 years. In total, I saved 12, 26er tires (Gozzaladi, orange strip Maxxis, etc) tossed out 41 tires. My current usable 29er tire count, 24. Not sure how this happens.
  • 2 0
 This is especially true for anyone holding onto a Chronicle, Chupacabra, old Forekaster, or Beaver. Get those on the buy/sell immediately!
  • 33 0
 I have a shed full of tires that are too worn for riding but definitely not worn enough to get rid of
  • 5 0
 @stayonyourbike: that makes total sense
  • 7 0
 @andrewbikeguide: ugh......I probably have enough tires to get me from one summer olympics to the next. lol

ITS A GOOD TIRE, I WILL FIND A USE FOR ITTTTTT!!!!!!!
  • 6 0
 You forgot to consider two important points. In both situations you brain is working like abs. Trying to maintain traction. What this test really showed was how well he could maintain braking traction. But were they at identical speed. My guess would be that the traction level was close because that is where the rider felt safe on both tires. There could be a kph or two difference between the tires but still have the same amount of loss of traction events. So somehow speed needs to come into question .
  • 9 1
 Nonsense! Having lived in the Phoenix area for 30 years, I assure you fresh, up to par,new tires will absolutely save you more than your copay at the ER, time off the bike, and recovery. I still have a cactus needle tip stuck in my knuckle from a year ago from when my last front tire let loose before it should have. New tires are absolutely the best money you can spend on your bike . Period.
  • 5 1
 4 left in stock...... add to cart.
  • 1 0
 @oldschool43: tossed out?! Ahhhggg...
  • 2 0
 @sharkmister exactly this! I went through my stash yesterday and realized I had over 30 tires that needed to be discarded, sold, or given away. My BuySell page is now loaded lol
  • 1 0
 @andrewbikeguide: Guilty as charged.
  • 2 0
 @Monkeyass: snap. Came to say this. Much easier to just change wheels.
  • 2 0
 @andrewbikeguide: you can combat it with acquiring more bikes
  • 2 0
 @scary1: Second this. I started replacing tires earlier during the summers I'd ride in Whistler (front to back, back out and fresh front) and it seemed to significantly reduce the frequency of crashing. Since then I've been on a fresh-is-better tire policy and haven't really looked back. Was impossible as a student though, we'd pick up used tires and ride till you had only a few mm of middle knob left.
  • 4 0
 You mean my tirechives?
  • 4 0
 I feel so validated now. My friends and wife who've seen my stacks of fresh tires all bought at good discount have laughed at me but now I know my people are out there. I probably have enough Conti Kryptotals and Assegais to get through two seasons so next year I might have to exercise some restraint. And yep I've got a number of fresh wheelsets as spares too.
  • 3 0
 I had a warped maxxis assegai DD on a new bike 2 years ago, warranty gave me a new 1 that was fine.coulnt bring myself to throw a brand new tyre away so I kept the wonky 1 for over a year before chopping it up and turning it into a down tube protector before an alps trip.people would see it and be like'why have you used a new tyre for that' ain't the first time I've had this problem with maxxis tyres either.
  • 1 0
 @perrybmx: Oh no. You just reminded me I have at least two DD's stashed away in the corner of the shed. Each with maybe 1 ride on them.
  • 2 0
 @rickybobby19: 100% THIS Can't beat the feeling of flogged out DH tyre on the rear of your HT #BombProof #Unstoppable
  • 1 0
 You have the strength not many people possess. I salute you!
  • 3 0
 @nowthatsdoomage: There's no way someone wants my old slightly used beaver in 29x1.95".... right?
  • 1 0
 @andrewbikeguide:
I only have three bikes, but I definitely have more than a year's supply with just the tires that are on the bikes.
  • 3 0
 A guy I trail ride with has a DHRII worn down to roughly semi-slick level of knobs. So he has the optimum mix of characteristics: downhill weight and XC traction.
  • 2 0
 I'm 100% still going to find a use for those brand new 26" hillbillies I got for Morzine in 2012 and then never used
  • 1 0
 I had that problem but didn't even realized it.
  • 57 2
 Nothing like beating ol’ worn knobs in the woods, eh boys?
  • 42 5
 Your uncle teach you that?
  • 37 2
 @noapathy: your mom taught me
  • 55 1
 My worn tires grip is equal to how broke I am. Less available cash for a new tire, more grip I have. Simple.
  • 3 0
 He is a decent rider. His skill means he changed how he braked and rode to compensate for the tire and give similar results. Put a newb on the tires and you’ll see far more slipping on a bald tire has they ham-fist the brakes with the bald tires - or maybe they just go slower.
  • 18 0
 Is slippage always the enemy though? I've been riding with an XC tire on the rear all summer, even at the bike park sometimes just because it's more fun. Maybe I'm a minority?
  • 3 1
 I ran a purgatory as my rear tire this last season. New it was about perfect for controlled slippage. After 100 runs, it really wasn’t controlled (it broke traction on the berm leading me into a step up and I had a near OTB on the ramp as my rear tire slid way out then finally caught throwing my weight forward into the handle bars). It also sucked on the steeps late season as the dirt got very dry and I had basically no rear traction.

But controlled slippage is super fun.
  • 30 0
 Almost half of every group is a minority
  • 6 0
 Depending on the conditions. In the dry I almost prefer a well worn rear tire because it is easier to "controllably" break traction when I want to. But in the wet, especially on steeper trails a bald tire is almost like a dead wish because it feels like you are riding without rear brake. But you are speedway drifting every corner whicih is fun as heck. To note that I ride a rear tire that is kinda drifty fromt the start.
  • 2 1
 I am right there with you. On my Downcountry bike, I had XC tires on it, and it was more fun. Slippin and ripping. Way fast. I recently put some DHR/DHF on it, and it's like a different bike.
  • 2 1
 fast or steep -> DHF

slow or low angle -> whatever
  • 1 0
 @pcmxa: If I hear the word SLIPPAGE one more time!
  • 1 0
 @TommyNunchuck: 49% you might say
  • 15 0
 Super cool project!!!
I’m curious if the same data tells us about corner slip vs straight line slip? Straight line traction means I can brake later and make the corner. Corner traction means I don’t break my collar bone.

Gonna stick with the idea that there are tons of good ways to save money, cheaping out on tires is not one of them.
  • 4 0
 I just don’t change my tyre until it’s totally worn out because I can’t be f*cked.
  • 1 0
 Yes, I was hoping this would be about corner traction. On my ride yesterday, I kept losing corner traction as if my tires didn't have enough air. But the sidewalls show no indication of that, and the side knobs are worn.
  • 1 0
 I was thinking about this too. I wonder how you could design a test for this
  • 11 0
 Just donate your 1/2 worn tire to a kid in your local MTB club. It totally justifies buying a new one. You’ll get that warm and fuzzy knowing a young shredder will have a blast on it and probably kill that tire in a month. By that time, you’re rolling new rubber with a smile on your face. Win - Win!
  • 1 0
 I tried. Put three tires at the mtb spot in my village. After two weeks they were still there, noone could be bothered. Dad's going to buy a new one anyway, so why get a used one for free? In the end I binned them.
  • 12 0
 I feel max traction is like 50 miles into the tire
  • 8 0
 Just curious, why you only tested this slippage for downhill riding, surely riding uphill could result in loss of traction as well if the terrain is traction demanding.
  • 1 1
 Yes the knobs on your rear wheel are important for traction as you pedal (that's when you don't want wheel slip at all). Going downhill, most of the hard braking happens on the front wheel - some slippage on the back wheel doesn't matter too much going straight. Where it seemed he felt it affecting his ride was on steep turns where the side tread being bald would affect control as his tire slips. His tire was still locking up with the new one, but it wasn't sliding side to side.
  • 1 0
 @Fill-Freakin: how do you know it wasn't sliding side to side? There wasn't any mention of sensors for that, just wheel speed comparison. All he measured was how good he was at threshold breaking with the two different tires.
  • 1 0
 @justinfoil: Did you not watch the video? Look where he's riding the chute new vs old. He even mention's the new tires allow him to hold the high line (which is on a camber), but the old ones don't.
  • 1 0
 @Fill-Freakin: and that's incorporated into the data how?

In fact, it kind of invalidates the data slightly if it's not the same line every time. Just being on a slightly different line, especially on a camber where from the wheel's perspective you're leaning to turn up the camber, is going to change both the traction and the wheel paths. And since relative wheel speed is the only data, any change in wheel path already changes the difference in wheel speeds regardless of traction. That changes the inputs to the data, makes it useless.
  • 6 0
 Just went through this. My rear DHRII is beat. One of the problems I encountered was the rear sometimes wanting to become the front tire on fast corners... but it is better when the rear gives way before the front.

The biggest issue that is the most noticeable and the reason I swap tires... is because on steep tech climbs (have a lot where I live), the lack of grip is very noticeable and becomes super frustrating. For me the centre goes first, makes tech climbs shitty. Especially noticeable as we get into fall riding with moist greasy rocks and roots.

Fast non tech descents (flow) are generally faster... dead tires just roll so fast!
  • 1 0
 ".... moist greasy rocks and roots."

Oooh, I see we're speaking moistly... that's it, one more time please, and make it reeeaaal slooow.
  • 1 0
 I came to post this same viewpoint. I hate slips when my legs are maxed out because sometimes it ended a ride for me when that led to a quad cramp and I may have been only midway through the ride
  • 5 0
 I don't know how you'd control for it but I brake until I get some slippage and then back off a little, regardless of tyre, so I suspect I'd get roughly the same amount of slip on all tyres but I'd be getting more traction (maybe) on the new tyre. Could you measure front wheel deceleration as well to see how much you were managing to slow down?

I also ride tyres to way more bald than the old tyre in this vid..
  • 8 1
 If anyone I curious where these trails are, just take highway 17 east until you get to Lexington reservoir, then go up the road from there until the main parking lot
  • 4 0
 This is jones trail
  • 1 0
 No no, you take a left past the big rock, and a right at the stump
  • 4 0
 This is definitely a cool test and thank you for your efforts in doing this and sharing the results.

Is the underlying assumption that a used tyre requires a higher slip ratio to generate mu (I'm not sure that the slip at which peak mu occurs should change, but maybe it does), or is it that if there is not enough grip the rider panics and in the vain attempt to slow down they grab a fist full of brake and lock up without actually improving the deceleration?

If it's the latter then you're measuring the level of uncontrolled panic braking that occurs with a worn tyre, which is a cool metric.

Since you have the high resolution wheel speed measurement, you could measure the former: Straight line braking on a consistent gradient/surface, don't touch the front brake, so this axle can be used purely for bike speed measurement/deceleration. Then try braking with different amounts of rear brake pressure, keeping your body in a similar position. It should be possible to plot deceleration Vs slip for both new and old tyres. Then with some assumptions about CoG height and measurement of the gradient you could calculate weight transfer and vertical tyre load. Then your graph could be converted to tyre mu Vs slip ratio.
  • 1 0
 It's not very high resolution wheel speed. An mtb wheel is upward of 2 meters circumference, and 10 mph is about 2 meters per second. So at 20 mph the wheel goes around about 2 times a second, 3 times per second for 30 mph A whopping 2-3 hz sample rate is _not_ high resolution by any standard.
  • 2 0
 @justinfoil: Looks like he has about 8 magnets so 16-24Hz. True that this is not exactly high res, but hopefully good enough.
  • 2 0
 @justinfoil: actually, 1m/s is 3.6 kmh so 10 mph=16kmh=4.4 m/s.
  • 1 0
 @ak-77: Even better then! Smile
  • 2 0
 @rojo-1: oh, I only saw the one he touched on the rear, didn't notice the many when he panned to the front wheel. Ok, so closer to 20-30 hz, but yeah still not exactly "high-res" , but probably enough for good wheel speed data in this case. Too bad wheel speed only really matters for straight line traction.
  • 2 0
 @ak-77: so it does, I must have divided by 2 in my head when I wrote it. Still not very "high-res".
  • 2 0
 @justinfoil: Yep, measuring aSlipF and R with a ground speed sensor and a gyro is quite a lot harder in terms of cost and complexity of hardware. Then there is the added dimension of camber angle if you're adding lateral slip...
Still, with this rudimentary setup it should still be possible to calculate straight line traction, which nevertheless would be very cool result indeed to discover the % grip loss longitudinally.
  • 3 0
 @rojo-1: I think the experimental setup is a little too complex, riding the trail is fun but not very controlled. It would have been much more straightforward to measure distance to full stop under maximum braking. You could compare the distance, but also measure slip.
  • 2 0
 @ak-77: Agreed
  • 4 0
 @CassLabs Very interesting article - thank you. I think your results are actually more significant than you are reporting: you are hypothesis testing if a new tyre has more traction and not if a new tyre has different traction (more or less). This means you only need to consider a one-sided t-test. So your p values are 20% and 9%.
  • 1 3
 How does a person know enough about the T test to use all the right language but not know that the P values aren’t a measure of ‘significance’? 0.06 isn’t more significant than 0.1 because it’s smaller or closer to a threshold value. It’s not a relationship like smaller number more confidence. It’s “you didn’t pass the lowest bar showing that there may be an underlying pattern distinguishable by better sampling (if the difference truly exists to be found).”
  • 1 0
 @Snfoilhat: I'm afraid I don't understand your point. Do you have a reference to somewhere I could read about it? My understanding is similar to a section here: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Statistical_hypothesis_testing

"A common alternative formulation of this process goes as follows:

Compute from the observations the observed value tobs of the test statistic T.
Calculate the p-value. This is the probability, under the null hypothesis, of sampling a test statistic at least as extreme as that which was observed (the maximal probability of that event, if the hypothesis is composite).
Reject the null hypothesis, in favor of the alternative hypothesis, if and only if the p-value is less than (or equal to) the significance level (the selected probability) threshold (α), for example 0.05 or 0.01."

And so as the p-value is higher with a 1 sided t-test, it would pass a higher significance test.
  • 3 0
 @Snfoilhat: yes, it is literally 'a relationship like smaller number more confidence'. The p value means: 'the probability that your two datasets are random samples from identical distributions is p.'
So the lower the p value, the higher the confidence that your differences are not random nut come from two different distributions.

When it's not random, the difference has a meaning, in other words, it is significant. How low the probability has to be before you decide it's low enough, depends on the field you are in. 5% is enough for medicine, but doesn't even get close in particle physics.

Of course, that is just statistics. Systematic errors, poor design of the experiment and wrong assumptions about the data are independent from this.
  • 1 0
 You’re still misinterpreting this, sorry. The p value is the probability if the T statistic being a particular size. Y’all are talking about an inference made w/ respect to that t stat, and that’s the mistake.
www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4635100
That’s a simple example.
link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s10654-016-0149-3
Thats a longer treatment. It’s not semantic. The t test 100% does not give you probabilities that your scientific hypothesis is or is not supported by the data. It tells you if the t stat ( a measure of difference in terms of variance) is large enough to maybe indicate difference, and the p value says if the difference is likely to be sampling error or due to a true, underlaying difference in populations sampled. P = 0.06 is not closer to worn tires have less traction than P = 0.01. There’s no such thing as more significant or close to significant.
  • 1 0
 @Snfoilhat:
To answer your comment: a t test certainly can give you probabilities that your hypothesis is *supported* by the data. If (and even in real scientific articles that is a big if) your measured quantity is directly related to your scientific hypothesis. Even then, a hypothesis that is supported by the data doesn't have to be true. It's just not wrong in a way that would produce different data. And fyi, p=0.06 is indeed not closer to supporting the hypothesis than p=0.01, you have that right, because lower p values indicate a *higher* statistical significance.

The papers that you link have to be seen in the context of a trend in certain fields of science, where the focus of researchers has shifted too much to only concentrating on finding differences in datasets that have low p values, without paying enough attention to what those numbers actually tell you about the thing you wanted to investigate in the first place.

E.g. in this case, if the hypothesis is: "rear wheel angular velocity that is much smaller than front wheel angular velocity is more likely with worn tires than with fresh ones" , it can be reasonably well tested with a statistical comparison between two data sets of relative velocities. Of course, if you take tighter turns, your relative angular velocity also goes down so that doesn't prove much about traction.

Let's put things into perspective here. This guy is doing a t-test with a sample size of 3. Good luck getting significance on anything that isn't bloody obvious beforehand with that sample size. This is a nice piece of quasi-scientific entertainment. That's fine. It's fun to watch.
But if we want to do a solid investigation of tire traction, we should not even be discussing p values here. This is engineering, not medicine. You're not limited by the number of healthy volunteers that will take your untested medicine. Go find a long straight fireroad and do a couple hundred braking exercises per tire with rear wheel brake only. Quantify slip with high enough time resolution to actually see the slip/wheel lock up events. Quantify deceleration. Show me histograms, not p values.
  • 4 0
 I think a more relevant measurement from a performance standpoint would be threshold braking:

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Threshold_braking

"Braking beyond the slipping point causes the tire to slide and the frictional adhesion between the tire and driving surface is reduced. The aim of threshold braking is to keep the amount of tire slip at the optimal amount, the value that produces the maximum frictional, and thus braking force. When wheels are slipping significantly (kinetic friction), the amount of friction available for braking is typically substantially less than when the wheels are not slipping (static friction), thereby reducing the braking force and eliminating steering ability. Peak friction occurs between the static and dynamic endpoints, and this is the point that threshold braking tries to maintain.[2]"
  • 6 0
 he could afford a data logger, but not a new tyre. i can result these priorities.
  • 5 3
 He did the logger by himself probably.
  • 1 0
 @lightone: that’s correct. he made the data logger.
  • 3 0
 Why didn’t you just measure deceleration on a flat piece of ground before the wheel locks up? You can’t really control for anything the way you’ve done it. Fancy and all as it is. Slippage on a complex trail run must have thousands of variables interfering with the results. I’m wondering are there any results from tests the manufacturers of tyres have available publicly? They must know this stuff very scientifically having tested in controlled environments.
  • 4 0
 Who knew that Dougie the Kiwi suspension tuner is likely wrong about worn tires but also rear braking effectiveness in steeps.
  • 3 1
 Next Test Proposals:

1. Facial expressions of people as you ride past with a bike with headset vs non headset routed cables.
2. Speed difference with position of the SaddleSpur seat: perfect, too far back, too far forward and backwards
3. Blind test of sram vs shimano vs... brakes looking at power and modulation.
4. Speed test of 180 droppers vs 240mm droppers since all the PB staff seem to insist these " short" droppers make all our bikes un-rideable.
  • 1 0
 Well tryed. Just needs some inspiration and a nasty ride to get rid of this bitterness.
  • 2 0
 The problem with the saddle spur for testing is it's a two position item. Either just the tip or fully rooted, no in between.
  • 2 0
 After riding on a rental bike in Whistler with a smoker DHRII years ago I decided that my time riding was more precious than the cost of a tire and since I've adopted a replacement policy of when the sipes can't be seen. Has served me well but has led to tire hoarding as seen above.

Anyone notice more flats with a more worn tire?
  • 2 0
 Stand by for the legions of amateur scientists to prove you wrong talking crap about some sort of chemical makeup of the tyre etc etc.
just ride your bike, have fun, if it’s wrecked and full of missing nobs change it if you can be arsed. If not just crack on.
Personally I have a few kicking around but not loads that change depending on conditions but other than that then they stay as the lay until a rip a hole to big to plug and then a new one goes on. I’m not a pro, don’t get them for free and don’t go fast enough to worried too much about a little wear.
  • 4 0
 New front, move old front to rear. Works great if you run the same tire f/r
  • 1 0
 For most people, better technique is worth more than new tires.
I switched to an asagai, and found that I could break and corner harder than a DHR2, but noticed - switching back to the DHR2 - I could not only have more fun, but match my performance by trying harder/focusing.
All wheel drifts with same tire front and rear for life!

your mileage may vary; I'm not a terribly skilled rider, and I'm not focusing or racing for tens of minutes at a time.
  • 1 0
 Slightly different statistical approach he could take: he could square the difference quarter second in momentum of front and rear wheels over all the runs and then take that number and test it against 0. Statistically they should be almost equal, so any difference, or change in difference could represent the effect.
  • 1 0
 Blown out. culdesac tires are just so much fun, when you slide until your side knobs catch in a corner is the best! But keep getting rid of your tires with 80% tread and I'll keep using your old ones. Haven't paid over 20$ for a tire in years
  • 4 1
 Beautifully explained and exectued. 100% would have done better in physics if these were the problems presented.
  • 7 4
 It’s not only about the traction. A new set of tires in a bike is so sexy.
  • 4 1
 And he didnt do them on the same day even. Not that we need data but… those dirt conditions pretty much change hourly.
  • 4 1
 'I don't even have to look at any data on that.' Fresh tire isn't same model as old one--stick that in your algorithm
  • 2 2
 I've just tryed a Magic Mary 29x2.25 Super Trail rear to replace the 29x2.30 DHRII I normally use. Paired with a MM 2.40" front it's just perfect. Keeping my semi wore DHRII for summer dry conditions where they excell...
Magic Mary rear is worth trying it in winter conditions... and strangely the rolling resistance is much better than the DHRII.
The MM rolls faster, grips and corners better, lasts longer and looks awesome... what else?!!
  • 2 0
 The only reason I am wanting to replace my DHRII on the back of my 'other' bike is I'm waiting for the sidewall to be destroyed leaving me cold and alone deep in the woods so I think it may need to go. I don't think I've had a moment on it where I missed it's old youthful grip, though. I would never do this with a front tire, cause safety.
  • 1 0
 @jesse-effing-edwards: True: keeping a fresh front tyre is primordial; a tired rear tyre can wait... until certain limits though, especially in greasy conditions Smile
  • 1 0
 @danstonQ: fortunately or unfortunately, moisture is rare on my trails haha
  • 1 0
 Thanks Matt. This was informative and the chute segment quite entertaining. I’m surprised that the hardcore Maxxis peers didn’t protest you using a Butcher for the experiment, no matter how little it cost.
  • 6 6
 So many assumptions. Here's something that's not an assumption: wheel speed comparison only works for straight lines. Front and rear wheels of a bicycle take different paths: there is always a speed difference unless you're going perfectly straight. Not to mention that wheel speed comparison shows absolutely nothing about lateral slipping, which is pretty damn important for turning.

Ignore the statistical numbers that I got from applying an unproven formula for a singular situation... Sure, ok.
  • 2 0
 I think his methodology could work if he precisely controlled the line for all runs but with the P values he got, I don’t think there’s a useful conclusion in the data.

I also think the findings basically only apply for the surface conditions tested. For example increasing/reducing tread depth theoretically affects grip on hard surfaces vs soft soil in opposite ways.
  • 2 2
 @mangito: Controlling line doesn't seem too big an issue if you build a big enough sample. I couldn't face watching the whole video to find out what the sample size was here, but it seemed highly unlikely that the sample was of any significant size (unless he was conceptualizing metre ridden or something silly as the unit of analysis). So the p-value is unsurprising.

That said, who reports p-values as %? And describing something like p=0.17 as close to statistical significance is playing very fast and loose with statistics.
  • 1 0
 Matt Morrison: Maybe run a ground speed sensor under the bottom bracket. Then you can compare the bike speed to both wheel speeds. Also do a wet ride test with grip front a rear,would be interesting.
  • 2 0
 I haven't bought tires in about 7 years, aside from buying a new bike last uear that included new tires. I just take other people's "trash".
  • 1 0
 From the old tire pile behind the shop? Some people replace tires with incredibly little wear on them.
  • 2 0
 Really appreciate how he clearly stands by his science - he went for an Ochain.
  • 1 0
 What is his day job? He is definitely a numbers guy and I hope this helps him in a career. Tires don't buy themselves afterall.
  • 2 0
 What about that feeling of a two wheel drift on a perfectly broken-in old tire ?
  • 1 0
 My xc commuter beater Ebike gets thousands of miles out of Pirellis. The single compound stays grippy while the knobs wear away
  • 2 0
 Anyone ever try put a 27.45 Maxxis DD on a 27.55 ENVE M90? If yes, you run tyres to the wire. lol
  • 1 0
 I think I would have placed some strain gauges on the brake mount and determined how much less load there is with the old tire. Nevertheless - interesting.
  • 1 0
 My last big crash was most probably caused from running my front tire for too long. The amount of grip on my fresh tire kinda made that obvious.
  • 1 0
 @casslabs could you mesure and compare padal kick back with and without o-chain ?
  • 4 1
 *Sponsored by Maxxis*
  • 2 0
 It was my understanding there’d be no math.
  • 2 0
 Anyone else notice they weren’t the same kind of tire?
  • 2 0
 Let’s gooooo Matt
  • 2 0
 Got get some boba ya fricking nerd
  • 1 2
 It's not April 1st?? When was the last time you crashed/injured? How was this even published?? This is actually dangerous advice
  • 1 2
 Sliding around like a lunatic is heaps of fun! I have had tires that could verge on "too grippy" and a little less fun. The dhf/ dhr II is a nice and slippy combo.
  • 2 0
 How? You’re not even close to slippery with those two. Run dual Ardent Races and we can begin to talk
  • 1 0
 @mariomtblt: 2.6 mm bb super gravity on a carbon stumpjumper.
  • 3 3
 A former Maxxis tire engineer buddy used to always say, "20% worn, 50% less traction".
  • 3 1
 This guys maths…
  • 1 0
 Do this with Rekons, when they die, they really die
  • 1 0
 Run same size and same tire cycle half worn fronts to rear.
  • 1 0
 How much wood could a wood chuck, if a would chuck could chuck wood?
  • 2 0
 Damn, phaffed it...lol tard.
  • 1 0
 I feel so normal now, thank you OP.
  • 1 0
 What data acquisition box are you using?
  • 1 0
 I love seeing someone smart geek out on this stuff. Great video!
  • 1 0
 Great work!
  • 2 1
 Nice.
  • 1 1
 Come On! What the hell. I just cannot
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