Descending On the descents, I found it easy to ride confidently almost straight away. The handling is well-balanced for aggressive trail riding, with easy maneuverability and plenty of stability for most conditions. For the tighter trails here in the Tweed Valley, it's well-suited. The head angle never felt too steep, even in the nastiest, steepest turns where the similarly slack
Atherton Am.150 was a little less surefooted. I think the reason for that is that the high-single-pivot suspension hunkers down into its travel when braking hard, which slackens and lowers the geometry just when you need stability most.
As for harshness under braking - I didn't feel any. The suspension is reasonably sensitive and predictable whether on the brakes or off. But while some say that high pivot suspension makes a bike swallow bumps like it has more travel, I don't think that's necessarily the case. I ended up running a shade over 30% sag, with the low-speed compression relatively open, and it's not a magic carpet ride. Don't get me wrong: it's supple enough, but even though I was using all the travel when warranted, I wouldn't say the high pivot suspension is punching above its travel category. The Ohlins RXF 36 fork isn't the most sensitive either, so while the geometry and stability are very enduro-like, it's the suspension that reminds you it's not quite as forgiving as a modern enduro bike.
For me, the 440 mm chainstay (which grows to around 453 mm at sag and 463 mm at bottom-out) strikes a good balance; the sprawling back-end makes it easy to keep good traction on the front wheel through flat turns, but it's not so long that manuals and bunnyhops become too awkward. On the other hand, shorter riders might find that growing chainstay length makes it harder to loft the front wheel, and even for me, it took a few attempts to get the feel for the balance point.
The Vittoria tires were a little dicey on wet rocks and I'd prefer the bars 10 mm higher, but these are quibbles with the build, which isn't available to buy for now and may change.
Overall the Highlander 2 is a good option for people who like their trails on the technical and chunky side. It's not quite a full-blown enduro bike (they make the Claymore for that), but it offers a good mix of stability and agility for what someone is inevitably going to call "Down Trail".
-not inexpensive
Aka:
-not not expensive
-not savings friendly
-not anti-pricey
Not dime-saverific
Not penny-pinchadelic
Not frugaltastic
Not thrift-a-licious
Not wallet-giggly (my favourite)
Not bargain-bonkers
Not cost-funny
Not budget-hilarity
Not chuckle-worthy on the price front
(from ChatGPT)
Not sure that's a fair comparison. Looking at the spec in detail I think it's obvious to see where the extra dollars go. For a start you can't really compare a build with Fox Performance Elite to an Ohlins set-up.
I agree there are more appropriate bikes out there for budget conscious riders - but we've tried to set the pricing appropriate to the spec level, and we'll always sell frame only for those that want a different build from what we offer.
- American: I'm gonna kill you
-British: May I suggest your existence ,can be of little inconvenience to me?
No mention of the health benefits of Buckfast.
I didn't get the popup.
Good call. I've used it for that annoying top banner but didn't even consider it could be used to remove cookie banners (browser auto-clears cookies so I'll get it every time)
I’ve always been puzzled by his love of the 38. The performance elite 38 was one of the worst most linear, unsupportive forks I’ve ever ridden. I even had that claim backed up by a dyno test and graph read out by my local suspension tuner.
Stuffing a fork full of spacers only gives end stroke support (unless you pack it too full then you start getting bottom out support in the midstroke, but you then also lose a large portion of your useable travel).
That said, I do run some degree of both slow and high speed rebound damping. I generally have a few spots on one of my local trails where there are some opportunities to pop moderate rollers and drop a few rocky sections. I'll ride these and play with rebound settings until the bike feels "level" when popping and controlled when dropping.
I don't see any reason to run compression wide open. It doesn't really increase suppleness as much as it demolishes support.
When I work on other peoples bike the rebound is always sooooooooooooo sloooooooooowwwww. I just don't get how people ride these bikes like this!? They have got to be just a packed up mess, or they are riding trails so slow that it makes it fell less frenetic......who knows.
the trick to fast rebound is you have to ride it fast too....it does fell like dog excrement if you try to ride chunky stuff at much of anything below full tilt boogie.
I don't tend to use others settings as they are so specific to so many variables. Just use what your suspension tuner recommends and go from there.
Hm.
This seems like you prefer an extremely active setup that would be terrifying for most people.
I think the latest M.2’s ship with a softer stack as standard now.
I’m sure Seb can ride better than me, but he’s exactly the same weight so it’s quite plausible he’d benefit from a softer comp stack.
MX bikes: one size, fits everyone.
As @deviatecycles says, the reach is only part of the story - but us a lot of us geeks understand the rest of the story and combine it with our own dimensions (such as my short legs/long torso) when choosing a bike. So this brand wouldn't work for me, but it will be perfect for some people. And that's fine.
re, the 3rd pic down. looks like 1/4 chain contact, compared to 3/4 non high pivot bikes
ep1.pinkbike.org/p5pb24699226/p5pb24699226.jpg
What? That doesn't make any sense. The rotational force from the brakes is the same no matter the height of the main (single) pivot. The force at the rear axle trying to rotate the swingarm around itself doesn't care where the other end is connected, it's still putting the same force into it.
Now, the rearward axle path will add to anti-rise, but that's separate from the brake's rotation force. The high pivot location is not changing the anti-rise from swingarm rotation, only changing the anti-rise that comes from pulling/dragging the suspension into the rearward axle path.
Torque is also fully dependent on what reference from you are using. So you can choose the pivot or any part of the linkage, you just need to be consistent to figure out the dynamics of the system.
Only part of the anti-rise story there. Other "results" are: less traction when heavy rear braking (the rear wheel is being pulled up away from the ground, plus less weight on the front wheel), and the rear suspension stiffens, especially if you're past half travel from a big hit or landing and getting into that progression zone.
Care to explain what upside down world physics you think is happening there?
"plus less weight on the front wheel"
The riders weight is still shifting forward, or to wherever they want it. The reason the front doesn't dive as much, ie; head angle steepen, is because the rear squats a little more (or rises less). Not because there is less weight over the front pushing the fork into its travel.
When you consider that you just said "the rear gets pulled up and away from the ground" and "there is less weight over the front" it seems you must be assuming these guys are half way to inventing a hover bike.
Moving on,
"and the rear suspension stiffens"
Nope. That's just a myth perpetuated by armchair experts that push directly down on the bikes suspension in the carpark with both brakes locked. In that scenario the grip from the tyres WILL fight against the wheelbase extending and allowing the rearward suspension travel to compress. However, in reality, on the trail, when the bike is being ridden, the wheels are both rotating and acting independently. Very rarely are they both locked up at the same time, even in that case the bike is still moving and the suspension will work.
www.commencalcanada.com/meta-tr-ohlins-edition-ash-grey-2022-c2x33295660
…Cannondale EST has entered the chat (but I think the Trek wins—plus extra points for ejector seat function)
> I also clamped on an extra gas strut
Now that’s next level!
But I personally cannot find a single problem with the current deviate routing
Light years ahead of that new headset stuff
For the record I have a '22 153 with all external brake routing... rear triangle internal routing is not my preferred choice for working on my own bike. But that's just, like, my opinion... man.
Why doesn’t stack grow proportionately with reach? Aesthetic reasons? This applies to every brand.
As a tall guy, it sure would be nice if the XL was just designed for XL humans and didnt take into consideration folks trying to size up.
Part of the stability is likely due to the extending rear end but as i say the anti-rise on the brakes means especially on steeper trails the rear stays low to reduces dive to maintain a slacker head angle also helping stability, but while a 4 bar might dive forwards more it might leave more travel to soak up the rough and feel stable that way, the suspension in the rough is great in my opinion, especially when off the brakes but i think this has more to do with the free moving suspension and i run a coil so there is no stickiness that some bikes get with air and bushes, a good leverage curve and shock setup to suit is probably most important for suspension performance and most bikes can achieve this regardless of layout, travel does count for alot tho so i think sebs point was some people say high pivots perform like they have more travel when that might not be true, like with any bike it depends on the whole package and setup which can make it perform above or below it's actual travel.
nsmb.com/media/images/Druid_V2_Leverage_Ratio.original.jpg
Not true. The Smuggler V1 had a leverage ratio of ~2.25 and a progression of ~6% and it was supple and grippy as hell.
Just a couple weeks ago I was hanging out at a mountain bike only shop which has recently stopped carrying Specialized. That said, all of the mechanics (one of whom is a former pro DHer) had universal praise for the performance of the bikes despite the shop having a general disagreement with the stocking requirements of the company itself...
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To say it was an issue with the V1 is absolutely incorrect.
The V1 I still own and love doesn't catch or risk stones and debris getting stuck between the frame or link.
The Forbidden V1 Druid and current Dreadnought would do that which is why they came with moto foam / sponge to slide into the entry point and the winter fender.
Still managed to get stones in there which can damage the paint or frame if you're unlucky.