Remember
Shark Bites? They were the colorful fruit snacks the cool kids brought to school in the '90s, gleefully chomping the heads off miniature hammerhead and great white sharks while those of us stuck with hot lunch poked at our mystery meat. That doesn't have anything to do with this review of Galfer's latest rotors, other than the fact that most of my shark-related memories seem to revolve around those gummy snacks...
First seen between the tape on the World Cup DH and EWS circuits, the Shark Disc rotors are made in Spain, where they're laser cut from stainless steel. The unique shape is claimed to offer a lower operating temperature and improved braking power compared to other options on the market.
Shark Disc Details• Thickness: 2.0mm
• Material: steel
• Sizes: 180, 203, 223mm
• 6-bolt only
• Weight: 180 grams (203mm, 6-bolt)
• MSRP: $95 - $131 USD
•
galfer.eu/bike The 'Shark' moniker comes from the fins that extend underneath the braking surface, where they're intended to act as heat sinks to further aid in cooling. The rotors are 2 millimeters thick, keeping in line with the trend towards thicker rotors that has been gaining momentum recently. For example, SRAM's HS2 rotors are 2 mm thick, up from the 1.85 mm thickness of their previous Centerline rotors. TRP has rotors that are 2.3mm thick in their lineup, and Magura has had 2.0 mm rotors in their catalog for decades.
The idea is that more material allows for better heat dissipation, and makes the rotors less likely to warp under high temperatures. They're also a little less likely to bend when you slip off a skinny or smack into a poorly placed rock.
Along with the increased thickness and shark fins, Galfer went all-out with the laser cutter and zapped out 324 holes and 27 larger cutouts to help with air flow and clearing dust, mud, or water from the braking surface. All those holes also help shave weight, although rotors aren't that high on my list of places I'm worried about a few extra grams. The 203mm rotor weighs in at 180 grams, 20 grams lighter than a 200 mm SRAM HS2 rotor. There's also a circular cutout near the 6 mounting holes that can be used to hold a speed sensor magnet for riders on e-bikes.
PerformanceI tested the Shark Disc rotors on several different bikes, all with SRAM's Code RSC brakes and metallic pads. I'd already been running 2.0 mm thick HS2 rotors, so there was no need to re-set the caliper pistons to gain clearance for the Galfer rotors. That'll likely be necessary if you're bumping up from a 1.8 mm rotor, but the process shouldn't take more than a few minutes. If you're going to be replacing your pads at the same time, twisting a flat head screwdriver between the old pads should push the pistons all the way back in, or if the pads are out a plastic tire lever can be used to make sure they pistons are fully retracted.
Compared to the HS2 rotors, the Shark Discs do have a slightly grabbier initial bite (no pun intended), which will be appreciated by riders looking for a little extra 'oomph' from their brakes. Even though the width is nearly identical to the HS2, the Shark Disc's design allows it to grab on more tenaciously when the pads first contact it - it's similar to the difference in initial feel between metallic and organic brake pads.
The rotors have remained quiet and consistent on long, steep and extra dusty descents, including ones that require prolonged bouts of very heavy braking. The conditions this summer have been extremely dry, but on the few occasions I did ride try the Shark Discs in the rain they'd make a little noise until the water cleared and then remained silent after that – I never found them to be overly loud.
Pros
+ Strong initial bite, consistent performance
+ Unique look
Pinkbike's Take | The biggest hurdle for riders interested in these rotors is going to be the price – at $119 USD for the 203 mm version they're twice as much as SRAM's HS2 rotors. They do look cool, so there's that, and they are slightly grabbier, but that's still a hefty price tag for a piece of steel. Price aside, they do work very well, and could be a good upgrade for riders who want something to make their bike stand out from the crowd. — Mike Kazimer |
Galfer rotors are great and I don't mind paying extra for Spanish-made steel. GalferUSA also usually has a hefty sale in November.
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Fixed that for you!
Can stop in the name of love
Most roadies (that I know) are all on discs now, except the ones who don't want to spend money on a new bike (me). But my enduro bike has 220/203 HS2 combo, which feels nice.
XC riders are basically dirt roadies with empathy and without the constant need for attention. They go to a quiet parts of the woods to see who’s best at pedalling where they’re not bothering anyone instead of doing it on public roads. How can you hate someone for that?
I'm also on 220/203 and gotta say...sooo much better. Tempted to even run 220/220...
"Banter:
The magnificent art of using word play, opinions, exaggeration, irony, sarcasm, and other comedic themes to (playfully) humiliate, make fun of, and laugh at your friends. This word is most commonly used in Britain, but 'Banter' is used around the world.
Joe: Your dick is so small!
Steven: Your mum didn't seem to mind it last night"
I was not implying that all roadies are luddites.
Some of the biggest bike tech nerds I know are road bikers.
BTW, this is addressed not to you specifically, but to all men who experience instant and unconscious “anger” when roadies are mentioned. Something like 10% of us feel this way according to statistics
It's a worthwhile strategy for an aftermarket solutions provider - the vast majority of people will ride what comes spec'd on their bike, and replace with OEM rotors from their service shop when it's time to do so. But there is a smaller market of enthusiasts and tinkerers who like to hand-select individual components, and are willing to spend $ to achieve incremental or style gains. These rotors are definitively targeted at the latter group.
Supply and demand; if people are willing to pay, then companies are stupid not to charge.
I buy my rotors from Shimano directly through EP.
I fell like more than $25 is too much for a bike rotor. I just bought new front pads and rotors for my wife's Hyundai, OEM quality, It was $160 from Rock Auto.
Totally unrelated, and apples to oranges, but those rotors are, cast, heat/cyro treated, machined and coated.
Drilling holes must be expensive!
PB conclusion: "for riders looking to have their bike stand out from the crowd" .. while sitting still
I won’t throw numbers out because without having facts on hand that would just be a dick move, but their profit margins must be alright on these…
Waterjet would definitely be slower… especially with those holes lol.
I could definitely see the cut/grind process as you mention.
Increasing thickness increases thermal mass but only marginally increases heat dissipation. Heat dissipation is mostly tied to surface area (that's what the fins on Shimano brake pads are for). Thicker rotors don't increase the surface area much, so heat dissipation is essentially the same.
As for Shimano ICE rotor vs a 2.0 steel cut rotor here are my thoughts and experience with a lot of racing/testing/experiment with various rotors (assuming all else is the same). Also worth noting im 6'1 weight 210-220 lbs with all my gear on. So I generate a lot of heat when using the brakes.
The Shimano ICE rotors which are really cool and unique that they use alloy in the middle of steel are machined very well with tight tolerances/specs and feel more solid then even a thicker (2.0) steel 1 piece rotor. If you mount each rotor to hub and press on the side and you will see what I mean. I attest this to their thick alloy spider that has strong solid rivets (not floating)! As for heat dissipation a 2.0 is about the same as the Shimano ICE with possibly a slight advantage to the shimano. The Shimano does have more surface area then the Galfer which might make it more impressive when you factor that in. I haven't done much testing with the new Sram HS2 rotors which I hope to soon and have some in stock to try. I just wish Shimano made a 223 rotor
'Yep, they're steel brake rotors, and work just like steel brake rotors. Oh, and they're extra expensive for 'reasons'.'
There are also combinations of brake/pad/fork/frame/rotor which tend to warble and stick-slip. Changing to a different rotor can help in that case. Doesn't need to be expensive, though.
But as with many part reviews, as some have said before, could you have a heavy guy testing them?
If the aim of this rotor is to provide extra heat dissipation, the real benefit is for riders and uses (read : ebikes or tandems) that are already so extreme that conventional 200 or 220 discs are not enough.
In other words, what I'd like to know is if this disc is an answer to those issues?
Side note: of all of the standards that people complain about, why are 203mm and 223mm rotors still a thing? It more than doubles the number of possible brake mounts or spacers that you might need.
Also, it's not just forks; there are 200mm post mount frames as well.
I just appreciate the fact that certain component manufacturers think that rotor sizes should go: 160mm, 180mm, 8in, 8in + 20mm, ...
Can you please compare a 220/223mm steel rotor against a 203mm ice tech rotor? I'm curious what's the better option as Shimano doesn't make a 223mm ice tech yet.
In the highlighted "Details" box it states they're made for 6-bolt only yet the photo shows a combination of 6-bolt plus a centrelock ring. I have wheelsets which use one or the other and have never seen both on one hub. What's going on with the hub/rotor in the photo having what appears to be a double mounting system? Thanks.
I guess if you have the cash, these would pair nicely with a set of CODE RSCs.......
By doing it on flat ground you avoid building up too much heat and potentially glazing your pads.
my current are on about 150k m and look barely used.
Let’s make Mtb’ing affordable again!
shimano does something similar with their aluminum freeza rotors. any pitch would make a difference for not much more manu. money. can be done w a press
Alicia’s progress may not be fast but she pushes herself every day in therapy. She continues to work on different cognitive functions and low intensity activities.
FOR THE LOVE OF GOD, NO!!!!!!!!
Codes are notorious for sticky pistons. If you've gone through a set of brake pads and want to get the maximum performance, all 4 pistons should be individually "manipulated" so they're all progressing out of the caliper body evenly. A quick bleed wouldn't hurt either.
As a trail side fix, the screwdriver method is fine, I guess. But you should never really be caught out by fully burned through brake pads.