Review: Knolly Chilcotin 170 - They Haven't Just Straightened the Top Tube

The new Chilcotin is a 29" wheeled bike that comes in two travel options. A 170mm platform paired to a fork of the same length, or a 155mm version that would be equipped with a 160mm fork. In this test, I rode the former. The bike has seen many miles and a whole slew of different conditions from the slop of December to the hero-dirt of February and spring. The bike feels like a far more evenhanded proposition than its predecessor. So, what are we dealing with?

---

Frame Details

The redesigned Chilcotin introduces a host of changes to its updated frame. Notably, the top tube has been lowered and straightened, giving a sleeker and more compact appearance, which is further enhanced by a lower standover height. The bearings are a full complement from Enduro and the rocker has been changed to a one-piece monolink design made with flat-tooling in mind for easier extraction and installation.

Additionally, the frame boasts size-specific chainstay lengths compatible with the UDH system, tool and bottle mounts, a lower shock mount designed to accommodate Fox's roller bearing kits, and an expanded 180mm post brake mount.


While all this is good to see, and the option to have tools mounted onto the frame is definitely a good thing, things did get very crowded with both a tube and water bottle on my medium-sized frame. I would love to see Knolly make use of the flat tube that runs from the bottom bracket to the base of the seat tube. This is surely the ideal location for the tool holder. For most of the test period I ran a tube taped here and it looked quite neat.

The frame doesn't use tube-in-tube routing. This is something I quite like as it gives riders the most options for brake routing. Although the routing is somewhat unorthodox and exits behind the seat tube, the frame holes themself are large enough to make for easier installation than you would think.

Geometry & Sizing


The Chilcotin's geometry has undergone significant changes, including the incorporation of size-specific chainstays. The brand strongly advocates for longer reaches, and the introduction of longer stays helps balance the front weight more effectively. While the comparison of the geometry chart with the previous model indicates increased reaches, this is mitigated by the addition of the size small option, providing riders with the flexibility to size down if desired.

However, it's worth noting that the sizing labels may not align with conventional expectations. In reality, the Chilcotin offers sizes ranging from medium to extra-extra-large when compared to other brands. This deviation from standard t-shirt sizing is not a drawback, but potential buyers need to be aware of the unconventional sizing. In personal testing, I, being 183cm (6'), comfortably rode a medium, despite typically opting for a large. That said, for taller riders the slack (around 69°) actual seat tube angle might mean they begin to feel slightly rearward.

A positive feature for any rider is the ability to equip long-droppers. The combination of short seat tubes and ample insertion depth allows for the use of longer seat posts. I rand a 240mm post for parts of testing and that's the longest I've ever been able to get away with.

Suspension Design

The Chilcotin uses the sixth generation of Knolly's own suspension design. The system, which can be described as a linkage-driven four-bar, uses not only a stout one-piece locker to drive the shock, but also has a secondary set of links to connect the seat stay to the main triangle. The four-bar can be cycled even without the rocker or shock, hence the distinction between it and a true four-bar. At the same time, it wouldn't also constitute a six-bar layout, despite its multitude of components.

Anti-squat is moderately high and consistent across the whole gear range. At sag, it varies around 99-100% irrespective of gearing. This bike has seen an increase in anti-squat from its previous version but it's also seen a slight increase in leverage. The idea is that the anti-squat will give a bike that is firm under pedalling load, but the increased leverage will offset this to a degree to have a bike that is still willing to track. I would say this works, for the most part, although it does suit people who are happier to sit and spin instead of lunging around the bike.

The Knolly system has an overall progression of around 28% in the neutral geo setting, and closer to 30% in the slacker option. It's interesting to see the bike come with air shocks across the board, because I found it rode significantly better with the coil. Knolly are happy to accommodate though, and point out that they can sell you a bike with a coil shock instead of the stock air option at no extra cost.

Test Bike Setup
In some ways, the build kit could be described as Enduro-light. The 180mm rotor on the back and lack of chain device also felt like they weren't quite in keeping with a bike so aggressive.

Initially, I spent a great deal of time on the Fox X2 air shock. While it's a very good shock, I didn't feel that it mated well with the progressive leverage ratio of the suspension. Even with both low- and high-speed compression fully closed I couldn't stop a great deal of instability through the rear of the bike. I eventually ended up getting the stability I wanted, but on the condition that I would also never be able to achieve full travel. The shock came without any volume spacers installed so there was nothing I could do to make the shock more linear.



After speaking with Knolly, I swapped the shock for a DHX2 coil shock. I tried both a 400 and 450 lb spring and found myself liking the latter better. The lower spring rate was far too unstable for me. With the 450lb option, the bike came alive and the setup was very much where I would want it. It might still be a little too progressive, but I could get 90% travel fairly often when riding the bike down rough and fast downhill trails. For more mellow sections, though, it could still do with being a bit easier to get to the upper reaches of the travel. With this spring fitted, the top-out from the shock was quite extreme. I ran the low-speed rebound half-closed to quiet the bike. It wasn't that I wanted it to return slower, but rather the noise was just too much to bear and left me wincing as I rode out of sympathy. Again, to me, this would suggest the bike is a little too progressive.

I also made use of the ability to run ultra-long droppers and fitted the bike with a massive 240mm OneUp dropper. I could survive with the 200, but more clearance is always a good thing, and I'm glad I went with it.


Testing Info

Testing took place in Squamish, BC, over a four-month time period. February was some of the best Squamish riding I have ever done. Huge amounts of grip, crisp clear days and rough-fast enduro tracks to hammer as fast as fear allows. While I often ride up Diamondhead, DeBeck's Hill is an amazing spot that flies slightly under the radar in Squamish. That said, it's definitely worth exploring.

Climbing

The Knolly gives a good climbing position, and the effective top tube of 624mm feels very much where you would want it for a bike that will fit somebody of my height. While you could argue that reach is purely a value that affects descending, and could be treated as a preference, I would say that one couldn't suggest the same of top tube length. 651mm for the size large is quite a lot, and would have been far too long for me.

The bike offers a good deal of balance though, is very happy to break into its stroke to hunt out grip. It is a better technical climber than it is an efficient fire-road spinner, but that's what climb switches are for. When it comes to hunting out grip, the ease that the shock breaks into its travel reaps dividends, and for a bike that is so active the Fourby4 system does a very solid job of not passing any of that movement onto your feet. Pedaling through rough, choppy trails is easy, and the distinct lack of feedback plays into that.


While the effective seat tube is amply steep, the actual angle could make it feel slacker at greater heights. It wasn't an issue for me, but I also wouldn't have wanted it any further back.

Overall, the in-range controls and consistent high-grip means that this is a bike where you can sit and spin your way up things. For those riders who wish to stamp, lift and coast through technical sections it might feel a little lethargic, though.

Descending

The Chilcotin 170 is a far better-sorted bike compared to its predecessor. The lengthened rear and shorter reach (of the medium on test) gives it a more settled ride, one that is also happier to play into the main strength of the bike - excellent tracking. The rider's weight is more centered, and you don't have to ride as aggressively to get the bike to do what you want it to. It's gone from a bike that you had to extract performance from to a bike that gives it without hesitation.

With the air shock, I think this bike is too progressive, but with the coil option it sits very near the sweet spot. Sometimes you can ride a bike and not really know where it is in the stroke because wherever you are has sensitivity, grip and support. That is the case with the Knolly. It's a very confidence-inspiring bike when set up correctly and handles fast rough trails unbelievably well. In its element, it's one of the easiest bikes I've ridden in a long time through rough sections of trail and begins to justify the added complication over a standard four-bar.


Cornering is solid, too. The slack-enough geometry will give you the stability and security you need on true downhill tracks but is also very easy to weight and find grip on through turns. The bike is also amply stiff when carving turns. That said, I did notice the front threatening to wash slightly in the Slack mode. Plus, it makes the leverage ratio more progressive still. In short, I found the bike to work best in the steeper geometry setting.

Part of its easy-mannered cornering aspects stem from its vertical rear axle path. It's incredibly predictable, and it really feels as if you can let the bike run and know exactly where and when the bike will use its travel. The lack of excessive chain growth also makes for a bike that is incredibly neutral through the feet without the complications of an idler. It feels very centered and lets you run through things and feel engaged with the trail yet isolated from the noise of hitting rocks and roots as hard as you can.


It's not all sunshine and rainbows, though. While this bike does track excellently and gives a neutral feeling that I really enjoy, it does tend to hang up when braking. That means riding it on fast, rough trails becomes more involved as you have to choose your moments to apply hard braking more carefully. Is this a worthy trade off? It's really hard to say. On trails that feature high-frequency chatter, absolutely. But when you're trying to slow the bike down over square edges you will find yourself punishing your rim or rear tire.

I don't know if this could be lessened with a higher value of anti-rise (the Knolly is low-to-middling at around 50%, where I tend to prefer things around 80%+). The tendency for the shock to feel like it wants to extend under braking means that you'll put your rear wheel through a lot of potential damage. I'm constantly hitting the rim on this bike with downhill tires at around 25 psi. It's something you can get used to to a degree, but it also means you have to consider how and when you will brake, which isn't always easy. I also snapped the shock bolt during testing and I wonder if this could be attributed to hanging up hard and often.

Knolly explained that they felt this bike represented real progress for the Chilcotin, and I absolutely agree. I would love to see these changes go even further, though. An additional half-dozen millimetres on the chainstay and a slightly less hardline braking character would make this bike potentially exceptional. I'm not opposed to the vertical axle path, and at times very much enjoyed it, but the combination of high-progressivity and a tendency to hang up means that the descending characteristics of the Chilcotin could be something of an acquired taste, and might punish those, such as myself, who have a more muted, heels-down-eyes-up style.

How does it compare?

How does the Knolly compare against my beloved Spire? Well, dimensionally they're really not far apart. The Spire is slightly slacker with longer stays, but a lot of the other key dimensions are just a handful of millimeters.

When it comes to the roughest, fastest trails, they both do an incredible job making you feel safe and relaxed. I would say the Knolly does a better job of separating the rider's feet from the suspension action, and as a result feels like it is a bit less inhibited when it comes to repeated medium-sized hits.

Both suffer a degree of mass transfer under braking, but both are within limits. While both suffer from an anti-rise value below what I would consider ideal, although there is a degree of personal preference within this. I would argue that the Spire's ability to use its travel more effectively when on the brakes would have it as the more well-rounded descender. On flatter turns the Knolly suffers from less wheel flop though, and I would argue, thanks in part to that slightly steeper head tube angle, the weight distribution is more even handed for most riders most of the time. The Spire really wants that high-speed or steeper gradient to make that front wheel feel absolutely planted.

The Knolly does hang up more than the Spire, but if you can ride around that you can get a rear end that does track very well.

In terms of climbing, the Spire feels a bit punchier but the Knolly offers out and out more grip on technical climbs. Plus, the lack of cross-talk between drivetrain and rear-wheel travel make for a bike that is very adept at climbing stepped technical sections.

Which Model is the Best Value?

Looking at which bike is best value, Knolly's pricing does guide you through incremental gains rather than giant leaps. That said, it still does feel a little strange to suggest the most expensive model. Even though it costs the most, in terms of value, it does represent the most bang for your buck.

I believe that Shimano XT is superior to GX in terms of longevity and have always enjoyed the M8000 series of brakes. If it wasn't for the XT Factory model, I would suggest the Deore version. However, once you're getting to $5,400 for the GX the return does get considerably better to spend more and upgrade to a better drivetrain, components and fancy-factory suspension, if only to keep the eventual resell value higher.

Technical Report

Fox Suspension: The 38 is a fantastic fork, as is the Fox X2 that came on the bike. Moving to a coil shock was game changing though, and the DHX2 offered a great level of grip, adjustment and support. The highly progressive bike and my high-chosen spring rate did make for a lot of top-out noise though, but it was easy to tune out and still offered a rebound speed that was amply fast enough for me.

Shimano XT Drivetrain and Brakes: If ever somebody at SRAM comes across my reviews they must just put their head in their hands. SRAM makes amazing wireless drivetrains and now arguably the most powerful mass-produced brakes in the world. What would I buy with my money? And what do I want on my own bikes? A mechanical drivetrain that's been out for nearly 5 years and do-it-all four pot brakes. I just love that mechanical XT is always good. No charging, good ergonomics and a solid shift. What else is there?

Enduro Light Build Kit: The build kit isn't bad - and is of a very good quality, but if you make a bike that can be ridden this hard it needs those final touches to complete the job. Thicker tires for both damping and puncture resistance, 200mm rotors all round and a chain device aren't things a rider should expect to have to source themselves when buying a brand-new enduro bike in 2024.

---

Pinkbike's Take

Posted In:
Reviews and Tech Reviews Enduro Bikes Knolly Knolly Chilcotin