Descending Hit the other button and the Strive relaxes and hunkers down at the rear. The suspension is very supple at the start of the stroke, offering a reassuring ground-hugging feel when pattering over matted roots and small stones. Yet when plopping into a catch berm or hole, the suspension never wallows or squats too much; it always gives you something to push against and drive forwards, maintaining its angles as you push around a turn.
With two volume spacers, it's pretty hard to bottom out, but it doesn't feel like there's a sudden ramp near the end, more of a continuous, smooth ramp of support. When rattling through really chunky sections, it's not the most plow-like, but I could afford to remove another spacer or increase sag to unlock more compliance, so that's a setup choice, not a limitation.
How much of this supple-yet-supprtive goodness is down to the Fox X2 shock vs the linkage design is hard to say, but I'm sure I haven't got the best out of the shock yet. Most of my suspension setup work has been spent playing around with spring pressure front and rear, and I've only tried a handful of the 30,000 or so combinations of clickers so far. Having two four-way adjustable dampers is arguably overbearing for a bike that arrives in a box, so it will be interesting to see how accurate and informative Canyon's setup guide is.
It's when braking that the suspension impresses most. It doesn't rise up and pitch forwards as much as many Horst link bikes, so the bike feels stable and settled even when during short, sharp braking periods. But at the same time, the suspension feels very supple even when on the brakes over rooty and rocky surfaces. I think Canyon has got the balance about right with the braking response.
My anxieties about "sizing down" melted away from run one as the proportions of the size large were very easy to get used to, and I was feeling confident and centered on the bike from the off. The bike never felt too small, unstable or prone to tripping, which should be no surprise given its real-world wheelbase with the neutral headset is within a centimetre of an
XXL Nukeproof Giga. I'd like the bar height to come up by 10 mm or so - with a longer reach, you need a longer stack height, and despite the 20mm of spacers and 30mm rise handlebar, it was just a fraction too low for me. A higher-rise bar would solve this but given the rest of the bike is well-proportioned for my height it would be nice to be able to get the cockpit in the right range from the off and have room to adjust it up and down.
While the 442 mm rear-centre is longer than advertised, it's still a bit shorter than some of the bikes that go this long in the front centre. Does this mean the front-wheel understeers in every turn? Not really. A 10mm increase in chainstay length (which would make it one of the longest on the market) would only increase the pressure on the front wheel by 1.5%. In order to get a significant increase in front-wheel traction, you need a much more extreme change in the rear centre than what's offered by most bikes with size-specific chainstays.
Only Forbidden seems to be doing that right now (the
Dreadnought's rear-centre changes by 42mm across the sizes and the XL has a 480mm rear-centre at sag, which has downsides as well as advantages). In my view, front-wheel grip is much more about rider confidence, suspension and stability than a few millimetres of rear-centre length, and the Stive delivers that in abundance. The slack head angle lets you really lean on the front with no worries about it tucking or being deflected; the rear suspension offers support to stop the bike squatting back in a turn, and the stable braking behaviour means you don't have to lean back when getting on the brakes, only to find your weight too far back when you get off them again. The Fox suspension offers class-leading small bump sensitivity too, helping the tires find consistent grip through choppy sections. All this makes it easier to stay centred on the bike, commit to turns and rip into the corner.
While the Strive feels at its best on steep, technical terrain, it's no slouch on flatter flow trails and trail centre descents. The suspension feels balanced and supportive when pumping through rollers or berms, and you can always use the Shapeshifter if you want a firmer platform to push against. Despite its race-ready intentions, slack head angle and planted feel on downhill tracks, it's surprisingly versatile and enjoyable when the trail mellows out.
Every bike is more than the sum of its parts. How the suspension, geometry, stiffness, weight distribution, componentry and more all come together on the trail isn't something you can extrapolate from the numbers alone. In the case of the Strive, its balance between stability and manoeuvrability, suppleness and support made it easy for me to ride fast, aggressively and confidently from the first ride and every ride since. That overall feeling is obviously subjective, and someone else may not have the same view. So for a second opinion, I recruited one of my riding mates, who happens to be about the same height and weight as me, to ride the Strive for a day. I made sure not to tell him what I thought of it before he finished. He too found it easy to get on with and ride fast almost from the off. Interestingly, he commented unprompted that it brakes very well. That made me a bit more confident in my view that this is a particularly easy bike to ride fast.
Issues / Room for ImprovementThe complexity of the Shapeshifter is a concern and something which would make me think twice about wanting to own this bike. Don't get me wrong, it does what it's meant to do, worked perfectly throughout testing and is a useful feature, but I think you could get most of the benefits (though definitely not all) with a steeper seat angle and a simple remote lockout. I also think that Canyon might as well have given it a more extreme seat angle if you can always slacken things out for flat pedalling sections, which is the only time when an 80-degree effective angle really feels too steep. In 2022, I shouldn't have to slam the saddle forwards to feel comfortable, especially on a bike that has a dedicated climb mode.
On the other hand, the Shapeshifter is basically a simplified shock and linkage, but one that you use a few times per ride instead of a few thousand times. Canyon suggest getting it serviced at an authorised dealer every 200-hours of riding or so, but I doubt if it will need it that often. Trawling the forums, it looks like a few people had problems with the first-generation system, but version 2, which is shared with the 2019 iteration of the Strive, seems to be more reliable.
Bike Yoke make a purely mechanical version for 90 Euros, which could be a good option to keep you riding if you do have any problems or while the gas spring is being serviced.
Another gripe is that the upper shock mounting hardware is shared with the Shapeshifter linkage, which means removing the shock requires you to push out a hollow pin that spans the shock eyelet and the link its mounted to (Canyon will sell you
a tool to do this for £27.95). This makes removing the shock or swapping volume spacers a bit more involved than with other bikes.
It's easy to read too much into the customer service horror stories (which you can find online relating to almost any brand) but the combination of the Shapeshifter's added complexity and Canyon's direct sales model isn't the most appealing from a long-term ownership standpoint. When I asked about this, Canyon had this to say: "Some readers may remember the very first Shapeshifter, introduced in 2014. Unfortunately, this suffered with some reliability issues... With this Fox produced component [introduced on the 2019 Strive], the reliability has been solid for our customers and racers for the past 3 years - and this new Strive uses exactly the same unit. If something goes wrong with your Shapeshifter, a Fox service centre should be able to get it up and running within standard servicing turnaround times."
Two things Canyon could implement immediately to improve the user experience are:
• Supply the bike with the shock removal tool, or at least put all the volume spacers at the bottom of the air can; that way they can be removed without taking the shock off.
• Leave the steerer tube longer, especially on the bigger sizes. You can always cut it down.
Yup. Gee Atherton, 6’1, who can custom make any size frame he wants, rides 480mm reach
Way too cheap for me. Call me when you hit Santa Cruz pricepoints, Canyon.
Sincerely,
-Disappointed
I have been finding that it's actually longer bikes that require more athleticism, flexibility, and strength to operate "properly".
At 5'11"/180cm I had a few bikes in a row at around 475mm reach and found I needed really tall bars/stem stack and 32-35mm stem to feel like I had decent range of motion.
Getting the bikes to fit was always a challenge compared to me hardtail which had 455 reach and a 50mm stem. I'm feeling things back on reach and it's way better.
I think if you're a VERY static rider then longer the better, where you're just a hunk of meat sitting between the tires not trying to go OTB, maybe if you're a VERY active rider where you have a ton of hip/back/hamstring mobility and just just throw yourself wherever you need to be, but in general I'm feeling less convinced about the more reach is better approach...
"where you're just a hunk of meat sitting between the tires not trying to go OTB"
Sounds like most people I know riding these massive bikes with 63 degree head angles.
First you say:
I have been finding that it's actually longer bikes that require more athleticism, flexibility, and strength to operate "properly".
Then you say:
I think if you're a VERY static rider then longer the better, where you're just a hunk of meat sitting between the tires not trying to go OTB
Extremely consistent! Congratulations..
The point is that these very long bikes only seem to apply to the very extreme ends of the spectrum, as far as riding style goes.
You can make it work if you're either very athletic and strong and able to move the bike around, or if you're a total sloth and don't care about moving the bike around. The two ends of the bell curve.
For the majority of people, not so good.
How on earth do small people find bikes now?!
Definitely interesting that bike sizes are getting so large though, I’d say on average mountain biking is not a tall sport
www.youtube.com/watch?v=obbaLWprzCA
Minute 4:12
He wanted to make it feel like the old bike.
And in the Tweed Valley he runs the old bike instead of the new one due to not enough testing yet.
If this bike was sold by yeti, Santa Cruz, Pivot, Transition et al, shapeshifter would be lauded and nobody would question it’s reliability.
I’ve bought five Canyons and the only issue I’ve had with a Canyon designed part of the bike was a minor paint defect on one main triangle. They replaced the whole frame and shock (for some reason?), they also threw in bearing kits for two other bikes, a spare mech hangar for one of them, and a hat.
I’m not married to the brand, in fact my next bike will probably be a Trek, Giant, or Propain. However I do find their engineering to be impeccable, and would have no hesitation buying a strive if I was in the market for that sort of bike. If they sold it with smaller wheels, I would probably be finding a way to justify owning one.
The inventor made a completely new version on his Tantrum Bikes; I wonder how it rides.
www.pinkbike.com/news/eightpins-ngs1-integrated-dropper-post-review.html
The Switch Infinity link really works. Fukin amazing bike the 150 is.
I had a V1 shapeshifter Strive and while I never had any issues with reliability I found I never used the high position as it didnt make a huge difference to me how the bike pedalled, so got the linkage. Saved about 200 grams and tidied up the bars. Still miss that bike!
The version on this bike seems to make a bigger difference however.
Only issue is the lack of an XS for folks under 5’9” (175cm) or so.
Its really what you get used to, longer wheelbase and longer reach has advantages in one place and draw backs in another.
Stack height and stem length can adjust your reach so its all adjustable.
I don't know about the S size for this Strive but the 490mm reach of my Honzo ESD, which goes up to around 505mm when the fork sags, seems ok for me (182cm, riding L).
But with such long reach I think the seat tube should be steeper, close to 80° so that the top tube doesn't get too long and you don't end up over-stretching your arms with too much wieght on your arms.
The honzo effective seat tube is 77.5°, 78.65° at sag, and I feel it should be just a bit more, around 80°, I still had to slide my saddle forward.
The theory to me is that with old geometries, the hips angle was more closed, so your upper body weight was supported mostly by your bum on the saddle and it was ok to have your arms stretched in front cuz' there wasn't much weight on them.
But with a long reach, the hips angle opens up, your legs are more under you than in front of you so the upper body weight wants to lean forward and is therefore more spread out between saddle and bars, and therefore can weight too much on the hands.
So to counter this, the seat angle must be steeper, so that upper body CoG remains more in line with lower body CoG, and your upper body weight remains over hips/lower body instead of weighting the hands too much.
All of this for flat/climb of course. On the downs everything gets much more dynamic.
Im also 6ft and 215 so im not exactly a small dude.
Again like I mentioned, the trails you ride should dictate the bike geo.
Proper journalism
Ps. I'm 188cm tall, and other people's personal preferences may differ! ;-)
Like a long reach and low stack... slam your stem (no spacers) and keep the normal rise bars. Want a shorter reach and like a more normal stack... throw 30mm of spacers under the stem (which shortens the reach considerably) and use a normal rise bar. Want a longer reach but a higher stack... use minimal spacers and use a higher rise bar (which doesn't shorten the reach).
If Canyon had made the same bike with a shorter head tube, these would have been options
You can customize even further with stem length. My bike comes stock with a 491 reach (size large), but the Head Tube is only 100mm tall. It also comes stock with a 50mm stem. I enjoy the feel and handling of a shorter stem and I like my reach around 480, so I put a 42mm stem on it and put 15mm of spacers under the stem along with a regular 20mm rise handlebar = perfect setup for me.
There's a couple good online geo calculators that will show you how these changes affect your geo.
Point is, it's definitely not all about one number and a lot of people have it very wrong. Most people don't even realize how much raising their stem affects their reach. Unless you ride with your stem slammed, you're not riding the stated reach. Which again is another important point... people pick a reach, be a dick about it and then throw 30mm of spacers under their stem and think it feels the same... in reality the difference between a 500 reach and 480 reach is 2 centimeters... put your hands out in front of you right now... now move them 2 centimeters further away... you barely moved them.
Yes, lost of numbers contribute to overall stack but it's all fairly simple to figure out. My point is, reach is customizable as long as you have a short enough head tube. And again, most don't realizer that they're shortened their reach by 10mm by adding 20mm of spacers. All simple math and numbers.
At very long reach, higher stack will keep the body more centred, but also lengthens distance between feet/hands, reducing mobility.
This isn’t magic. All the numbers are there. You’re not going to over increase anything as long as you keep an eye on the actual numbers.
Yes, if the stack is lower for a given reach then it just means the bike is both shorter and lower.
But you can't just "keep" the reach by using a high rise bar. With a high rise bar, it's either rolled back so that the rise is in line with the steering axis, in which case it's exactly the same as adding spacers under your stem, or it is rolled forward, in which case it's exactly the same as using a longer stem (and raising it with spacers). I've had idiots talk shit on my 50mm stem and how it must handle bad and that their 40mm is sooo much better, while they've got big riser bars that are putting their grips further out in front of the steering axis than my bike. Now that I've got 40mm risers on my bike, I've moved to a shorter stem to keep the steering consistent. So "keeping the reach" is a stupid thing to try to do.
Having a low stack adds some flexibility in bar height if you want your bars low, but the guy above was talking about adding 60mm of spacers under the stem. But forks have a max amount of spacers they recommend. I think Fox is 30mm. So too low stack and you're limiting setup too.
The above frame still has short head tube lengths in the small sizes. There's only so much you can do to reduce stack on a long travel 29er.
If it’s a true enduro race bike, it should be DH rated.
A race bike needs to be able to take a beating, period. And with those geometry numbers it´s meant to be mercilessly hammered down a hill. What´s the point in making this thing a pure race bike when the riding reality of most folks out there doesn´t consist of only enduro race tracks? Is this really supposed to be for race weekends only and anyone who buys this needs to also purchase a dh bike for park days and a freeride bike for hucking the local hill? Seems kinda off the mark, especially when other manufacturers do not have that limitation and Canyon´s bike isn´t even exceptionally light.
As it stands, to me this is a niche item with questionable manufacturer backing.
I really overall like the bike, but that limitation is a major turnoff.
DH tires with inserts, burly rims and bars, and big travel suspension will do that.
If you want a slack, capable bike that weighs less, that’s a trail bike.
I actually rode what I’d call enduro (all mountain) back in 2013, now an enduro bike is too much ‘bike’ for me, so I ride a trail bike.
"The race team were also apparently behind the decision to go full 29er, as even the shorter team riders felt they would make up more time with the rollover of a bigger back wheel than from the ability to ride more dynamically on steep tech, which is more of an advantage in downhill than enduro."
Sounds like they designed this bike for Enduro riding/racing vs HD racing with significant input from their EWS team... makes sense as it's an enduro bike and not a DH bike.
The fact that they mention this in the article makes me believe they're prefacing to deny many many warranty claims in the future based on this.
Not comparable with the average park rat who is casing jumps on the same bike for year after year without ever checking for damage.
Do they put the saddle on the stem to get enough front end traction or what?
The cost of Fox service parts is silly though. Given a choice I'd take Rockshox for that reason.
This is a consumer item though.
Not really reassuring to know my race bike has a limited warranty backing from the manufacturer. All that tells me is they don´t trust their product. And let´s be real, racing a bike often times takes a bigger toll on a bike than clean hucks at the bikepark. I know i´ve sent more hucks to flat or into the face of a jump during race practice than while casually cruising at the park and the resulting forces were a lot higher than any big but clean jump at the park.
This whole "for racing only" (FRO) thing has hugely backfired for Intense already in the past and pretty much made it a meme, when people were folding those bikes left right and center.
Most people will use this for what it appears to be on the surface, a pedalable bike that´s meant to be hammered down a hill. Few will even realize they´re supposed to buy an aditional dh or freeride bike for park days.
I see fun times ahead in the Canyon warranty department and can already picture all the angry forum threads about how the new Strive is a tin can.
This is so appreciated. One of the biggest items I'm looking for in a review and as far as I know you're the only way bothering to do it. Nice work Mr. Stott!
"The frame is category 4 rated. According to Canyon, that basically means "the frame is not approved for regular use on those features which set aside DH riding or freeride from enduro (huge jumps, cliff drops, gnarly gas to flats). So if the frame fails here, then this is excluded from the warranty." If you need a category 5 bike for regular bike park riding, Canyon has the Torque for that."
So a beefy 35lbs bike with160mm(r), 170mm(f) travel, 63* HA, etc is "not approved for regular use" on big jumps, drops, etc. But a 35lbs. bike with 175mm(r), 170mm(f), 63.5* HA is. They're practically the same bike! No one is, or should be, using the Strive for anything less imo.
Based on the geo chart and no Seb’s measurements:
The size small front - rear center ratio is 1.85 which is about as far as I would like to.
The size XL is 2.06 meaning the front center of the bike is literally 2x’s longer than the rear. That’s drastic.
It’s horrible how unbalanced the big bikes are
At 6'3" I aim for 470mm ST and 480mm reach. It went from too long ST to too short... And one of the reasons the new Torque wasn't an option
I reckon it’s awesome!
www.youtube.com/watch?v=piWBVDh1pTE This technique works really well for me.
Hopefully EXO+ tires can survive for most people! My bike came with EXO that lasted maybe 6 months before it was shredded by baby head rocks.
It is really strange considering their fastest EWS rider manages to win everything on a bike with ~450 reach and 20mm BB drop. Even more considering he is 190 cm tall....
www.pinkbike.com/news/field-test-2022-yt-capra.html
enduro-mtb.com/en/enduro-race-bike-mtb-review
with 186 it always felt weird to buy XL frames, since 186 isn't XL! i finally could buy a L and be happy about the +/-500 reach!
would definately consider buying a strive!
But with shapeshifter - no. Canyon - never again.
What ? The chainstay is 7mm longer than the chart says, and the WB is 12mm longer ?
That's unacceptable to me.
Regarding the sizing I always thought it odd that I mostly fit a medium for clothing but have to run a large for mtb frame, so in that sense I’d say these sizes align more to clothing sizes.
It doesn’t all have to be apples for apples.
Not sure how to repair aluminum...?
Except it is an enduro _winning_ bike, the champ and half of the top 6, as stated by you. Isn't that the definition of an enduro bike, the one that wins the Enduro World Series? Shouldn't other bike's numbers be compared to that?
*laughed out loud at the geometry chart*
When you measuring your height to choose bike size. Should we wear MTB shoes ?
EDIT: Aaaah… It’s so far forward because of the ridiculous reach numbers! Test riders couldn’t grab the bars very well haha!!